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2024年1月18日发(作者：)

It's Tough at the Top

Mount Everest has long been a great

attraction to millions of people throughout the

课文一

艰难登顶

world. Many people have risked and lost their

珠穆朗玛峰对于全世界数百万人lives in the course of expedition. Modern

来说， 长期以来有着巨大的吸引力。在征explorers, however, are becoming more fascinated

服珠穆朗玛峰的过程中，许多人冒了巨大by the ultimate fate of earlier doomed explorers.

的危险，而且失去了生命。然而，现代探

"Because it's there," George Mallory

险者对早年遭到厄运的攀登者的最终命reportedly replied when asked why he wanted to

运，表现出越来越浓厚的兴趣。

climb Mount Everest. The only man to take part in

all three of the British pioneering expeditions

据说,当乔治·马罗礼被问及他为in the 1920s, Mallory was driven by a fascination

何要攀登珠峰时，他这样回答，“因为有to reach the summit of the mountain with which he

珠峰”。 他是唯一参加二十世纪二十年代had formed a strong personal bond with. "It's an

英国组织的 所有三次征服珠峰活动的探hell-like mountain, cold and treacherous," he

险家。他对珠峰怀有强烈的情感，一直神once wrote in a letter home from Everest Base

往登上山顶。“它是一座魔鬼般的大山，Camp. "The risks of getting caught are too great;

冷峻而且反复无常，”他在珠峰大本营给the margin of strength when men are at great

家人写信时有一次这样写道。“冒的险实heights is too small. Perhaps it is mere folly to

在太大；人们攀登峰顶时可使的力量又是go up again. But how can I be out of the hunt?"

这么小。也许只是发疯了才再次攀登。可 In 1920 when Francis Younghusband, the

是我怎能摆脱这种诱惑呢?”

President of the Royal Geographical Society

(RGS), first put forward the idea of supporting

an expedition to Everest, the mountain was still

a mystery. At 8 848 meters Everest was almost 1

500 meters higher than anyone had previously

1920年皇家地理学会主席弗兰西climbed. There was even doubt as to whether it was

斯·扬哈斯本首次提出支持珠峰探险的想possible to breathe at such altitude. At the time

法时，人们对这座山 还一无所知。高达no one had been within 65 kilometers of the

8848米的珠峰比当时人类攀登过的最高mountain, which could only be approached through

峰还高出1500米。人们甚至怀疑，在这样the unknown kingdoms of Nepal or China's Tibet.

的高度有没有可能呼吸。那时，还没有人 With the North and South Poles already

到过珠峰 周围65公里的范围，只能从人discovered, Younghusband had his sights set on

们不太熟悉的尼泊尔王国或中国的西藏走the "third pole", setting up the joint RGS/Alpine

近这座高山。

Club, Mount Everest Committee. "The

accomplishment of such a feat will elevate the

human spirit and will give man, especially us

geographers, a feeling that we are acquiring a

true mastery of our surroundings. This is the

incalculable good which the ascent of Mount

Everest will confer," he said.

High Hopes

随着人们发现了北极与南极，扬哈斯本把他的目光投向“第三极”，设立联合皇家地理学会/登山俱乐部下属的珠穆朗玛峰委员会。“这次壮举的完成将振奋人类精神，也让人类，尤其是我们地理学 George Mallory and Andrew Irvine had set

家感到，我们正在成为我们这个环境真正

out from Camp VI on 8 June 1924, attempting to 的主人。登上珠穆朗玛峰所产生的 效益是become the first men to set foot on the summit. 难以估量的，”扬哈斯本说道。

They never returned. Today, with more than 550

厚望

mountaineers from 20 countries having reached the

summit, the mystery has shifted away from Everest

the mountain, towards Mallory the man. In March

乔治·马罗礼与安德鲁·欧文于1999, 75 years after Mallory's death on the

1924年6月8日从六号营地出发，试图成mountain, the Mallory and Irvine Research

为首次登上珠峰的人。可他们再也没有回Expedition set out for Everest, not because it was

来。时至今日，已有20个国家五百五十多there, but because he was. Leader of the 1999

名登山运动员登顶成功。谜团也就从珠峰expedition Eric Simonson and his team were hoping

这座山转向马罗礼这个人了。1999年3月，to discover whether or not the two men achieved

在马罗礼罹难后的第75年，马罗里—欧文their goal before they died.

研究探险队向珠峰进发，不是因为珠峰在 They had only a few clues to go on. In 1933

那里，而是因为他在那里。1999年探险队an ice axe, thought to be Irvine's, had been found

长埃里克·西门松及其队员希望发现这两on the route, and in 1975, the body of a climber

人死之前是否成功登顶。

was discovered nearby by a Chinese climber who

described it as being an "old English dead" on

account of the vintage clothes the body still

他们只有几条探寻的线索。1933wore. However, the identity of the dead climber

年，在登山线路上找到被认为是欧文使用has never been confirmed. Simonson's team

的一把冰斧。1975年，一名中国登山运动expected to relocate the body during their high

员在附近发现一具登山者的尸体，将其描level search. They anticipated it to be Irvine,

述为“一位年长的英国死者”，因为尸体the inexperienced Oxford graduate who had

穿的是老式衣服。然而，这位死去的登山possibly fallen, dropping his ice axe on the icy

者的身份从未得到确认。西门松的探险队slabs of Everest's North Face. Mallory's fate was

期望在高地再 次找到那具尸体。他们认为unknown.

会是欧文，这位经验不足的牛津毕业生可 Searching amongst the snow gullies and 能是从悬崖上坠落的，将冰斧掉在珠峰北scouring ledges at 8 320 meters, Simonson's team 坡的冰层上。马罗礼的下落则不清楚。

discovered a body, the skin bleached porcelain

white by the sun. It was lying face down, head and

arms frozen into the earth. Only the collars of

the tattered clothes were intact and on one was

uncovered a manufacturer's label, still legible

在8320米的雪沟与冰棱间搜寻despite years of vicious assaults by ice and wind.

时，西门松小组人员发现了一具尸体，太Beneath this was another label, which they could

阳把他的皮肤 晒成瓷白色。尸体的脸部朝all easily read. In simple carefully stitched

下，头与双臂与地面冻成一块。破碎不堪letters was written: G Mallory. Mallory's name on

的衣服只有领子完好无损。其中一个领子the clothes so surprised the search party their

上发现制造厂商的标签。虽经数十年的风first thought was to wonder why Irvine had been

霜冰雪严酷吹打，标签上的字仍清晰可辨。wearing his climbing partner's shirt. The

在这块标签下还有另一块标签，队员们很discovery of Mallory's body prompted admiration

容易辨出上面的字。简单而细心缝制的字of expedition search member, Jake Norton. "As a

母为：G. Mallory。衣服上的马罗礼的名climber, to know what Mallory did was phenomenal.

He was a powerful tough guy, who fought till the 字令搜寻小组感到十分惊讶，他们的第一end," he told reporters.

个反应就是猜测欧文为何穿着他登山伙伴 During the early decades of the twentieth

的衬衫？发现了马罗礼尸体后，探险队员century, it was this strength, tenacity and love

杰克·诺顿对其产生了无比的敬意。“作of adventure which had established Mallory as a

为一名登山者，了解马罗礼所做的事情意leading figure in the close-knit climbing world.

义重大。他是一位意志极为坚强的人，战He was an obvious choice for the Mount Everest

斗到最后一息，”诺顿跟记者这样说道。

Committee as part of the first reconnaissance

expedition in 1921. For Mallory this was the

opportunity of a lifetime. It was a challenge, but

二十世纪前几十年时间里，力量、that only increased its appeal, for as he once

坚韧不拔与富于冒险的精神使马罗礼在组said: " To refuse the adventure is to run the risk

织严密的登山界成为一名出类 拔萃的人。of drying up like a pea in its shell."

By 1924, after two exhausting and

unsuccessful attempts to the mountain on

expeditions in 1921 and 1922, his early

1921年他被珠穆朗玛峰委员会一眼相中，成为第一个珠峰探险队的成员。对于马罗礼来说，这是一生一次的机会。这次攀登珠峰是一次挑战，但挑战更提高了它的吸enthusiasm began to wane. He was now 38 years old. 引力，因为正如马罗礼曾经说过的那样，A family man with three children, he had just “拒绝这次冒险机会等于让自已庸庸碌碌begun a teaching job at Cambridge. Yet, he 地渡过一生。”

couldn't resist one final attempt to complete a

task he had started. Meeting Irvine, recommended

by Noel Odell, the expedition's geologist, buoyed

到了1924年，经过1921年与1922him up for the challenge. Although Irvine was

年两次使人精疲力竭的失败尝试后，马罗young with no track record as a climber, he was

礼早期的热情开始减退。他已38岁。作为strong, resourceful and good-natured. The

有三个孩子的一家之主，他开始在剑桥大expedition "superman", they called him. Mallory

学执教。然而他无法抵挡作最后一试的诱had warmed to him immediately, describing him as

惑，以完成他已开始的事业。他会见了探"a fine fellow", who should, "prove a splendid

险队地质学家诺尔·奥德尔推荐的欧文，companion on the mountain."

这重新唤起他应对挑战的干劲。虽然欧文 Before departing for the 1924 expedition

年轻，还没有登山记录，但他体魄强壮，Mallory had confided in a friend that it would be,

主意又多，而且性格随和。在探险队里，"more of war than an adventure", and that he was

队员们称他为“超人”。马罗礼马上给他prepared for a siege on the summit. Two attempts

鼓劲，称他为“好汉”，会是“登山中一were to be made, one with oxygen and one without

个出色的伙伴。”

but Everest repelled both attempts. Mallory's

climbing teams were defeated through lack of

oxygen and exhaustion. He refused to give up and

was determined to risk one last try. Only Odell

and Irvine were in a fit state to partner him. For

Mallory it was a simple choice. He threw his lot

1924年的探险出发前，马罗礼私in with Irvine and the pair set off on their fatal

下跟一位朋友说，这次探险“与其说是一summit bid.

场冒险不如说是一场战争，”而他做好在 The day after Mallory and Irvine departed

山顶遭受灾难来袭的准备。他们打算做两

for the summit, Odell saw them for the last time 种尝试：一种是带氧，另一种不带氧气。from a crag at 7 925 meters. A sudden clearing 但是珠峰对这两种尝试均未买账。由于缺above him unveiled the whole summit ridge. On a 氧和体力衰竭，马罗礼的登山队失败，但snow slope, clinging to the steep North Face, he 他毫不气馁，决心冒险做最后一搏。只有noticed, first Mallory, then Irvine approach a 奥德尔与欧文身体状况尚好，可以陪着他。broad rock step. As he stood, his eyes tracking 对于马罗礼来说，选择很简单。于是他决them against the mosaic of rock and snow, the 心与欧文共命运，俩人踏上登顶的不归路。

weather closed in again, clouding their fate for

the next 75 years.

Frozen to the Core

In finding Mallory's body, Simonson's

died. Prior to the recent expedition it was

马罗礼与欧文出发登顶的第二天，米的险崖处。他头顶上突然现出一片晴朗，team had helped to come to a theory of how he had 奥德尔最后一次看见他们是在海拔7925thought that Mallory and Irvine had been climbing 整座山脊一览无余。紧靠着陡峭的北坡的at 8 535 meters, and could have either fallen or 雪坡上，他先看到马罗礼，然后看见欧文simply laid down exhausted in the snow to die. But 到了一块宽阔的岩石阶上。他站在那里，after seeing the body, Norton is sure they were 双眼紧紧盯住岩石与雪地交织地带的俩climbing tied together when Mallory fell. "There 人，云气再次降临下来，将他们的命运一was a rope wrapped round his waist. You could see 盖就是75年。

black and blues on him, he probably had internal

bleeding. He slid down the North Face digging into

the snow or gravel, crossed his legs in pain and

died a few moments later."

Other more significant questions remain. 寒冻到了极致

Despite the initial find of the body, Everest was

西门松探险小组发现了马罗礼的reluctant to give away too many more clues. The

尸体之后， 帮助得出了关于他死因的解team failed to find the camera, lent to Mallory

释。在这次探险之前，人们认为马罗礼与by his climbing partner Howard Somervell, the

欧文攀到8535米的地方时，他们要么翻下existence of which may prove whether or not the

了山崖，要么是体力不支，躺倒在雪地上pair made it to the top. However, searching for

死去。但检验了尸体后，诺顿确信马罗礼needles in a hostile, windscorched haystack of

坠落时，他们俩正在一块攀登。“一条绳rock and ice is a perilous business. Between 8 230

子绕在他的腰间，身上青一块、紫一块的，meters and the summit, Simonson's team counted 17

他大概内出血。他在用冰镐往雪地或砾石other bodies, besides Mallory's. In the face of

上钉眼时从北坡滑落，双腿痛苦得蜷在一such danger the expedition's fascination with the

起，不久便死去。”

man, must be almost as great as the man's own

fascination with the mountain.

Macabre though Simonson's quest is, it is

not unique. In the autumn of 1984 the face of John

Torrington appeared in national newspapers. What

还有更重要的问题依旧末解。除了was unusual about this was that Torrington had

最初发现的尸体，珠峰不愿提供更多的线been dead for 138 years, buried under 1.8 meters

索。探险小组没有找到马罗礼的另一位登of Arctic permafrost. Torrington had been chief

山伙伴霍华德·萨默维尔借给他的相机。

Stoker aboard the Erebus which along with the 若是找到了相机，就有可能证明这两人是Terror sailed with Sir John Franklin during his 否成功地登上了峰顶。然而，搜寻这部相expedition to chart the Northwest Passage. The 机无异于在崖石与冰雪构成的狂风怒吼的expedition had set sail from the Thames River on 海洋里寻找一根针，危险太大了。在823019 May 1845, carrying with it the hope of the 米与峰顶之间，西门松小组共找到除马罗nation for the discovery of a navigable route 礼以外的另外17具尸体。在这么危险的情through the Arctic into the Pacific Ocean.

况下，探险队员们在寻找这个人时表现出 Neither ship was ever seen again and 129

来的执着，一定与这个人对珠峰的执着一men lost their lives in a polar enigma which

样强烈。

mesmerized Victorian Britain. The conclusion of

the 25 major search expeditions, which set out to

solve the puzzle was that Franklin's men had

succumbed to scurry, starvation, stress and

hypothermia. In 1981 American anthropologist

虽然西门松一行人的探寻活动看起来相当恐怖，但并非是独一无二的。1984Owen Beattie, set out to apply modern scientific

年的秋天，约翰·托林通的头像出现在全and forensic technique to any remaining evidence

国的报纸上。非同寻常的是，托林通早在of Franklin's expedition. Over the following five

一百三十八年前就死了，葬于1.8米深的years Beattie scoured Franklin's expedition

北极永久冰土下面。托林通是“埃里伯sites for clues. His most grisly task was the

斯”号船上的仓库管理主管，在他赴西北exhumation and autopsies of three expedition

航道探险时，同船前往的有约翰.富兰克林members, one of whom was John Torrington.

爵士，另有“恐怖”号船同行。探险队于 For men buried in the year that the Corn

1845年5月19日从泰晤士河起航，带着Laws were repealed, they were in a remarkable

举国上下的希望，去发现一条从北极到太state of preservation. Being kept in the frozen

平洋的航道。

earth since 1846 had prevented major outward

appearances of decay. Torrington looked very much

此后这两艘船再也没有踪影。船上as he has done in life; skin was still on his face,

129名船员全部丧生神秘莫测的极地，这he had kept his teeth, eyes and most of his hair.

使维多利亚时代的英国人百思不得其解。Samples of his body tissue looked almost recent

为了解开这一迷团，人们先后组织了25in origin and certain bacterial stains collected

次大规模的搜寻行动。最后得 出的结论had even survived the big freeze.

是：富兰克林一行人死于阵雪、饥饿、心 The autopsy showed Torrington was an ill

理压力与体温过低等方面的原因。1981年man when he died. His lungs were blackened with

英国人类学家奥温·比泰开始用现代科学atmospheric pollutants and he showed evidence of

与法医技术检验富兰克林探险队存留下来tuberculosis. There were also signs that the

ultimate cause of death had been pneumonia.

的遗迹。此后五年的时间里，比泰走遍了富兰克林探险队所经过的地方寻找线索。However, what struck Beattie most were abnormally

他那最令人毛骨悚然的工作，是把三名探high levels of lead found in samples of hair,

险队员的尸体挖出来并进行尸体解剖 ，其indicating acute lead poisoning. Lead poisoning

中一名是约翰·托林通。

can lead to weakness, fatigue, stupor, neurosis

and erratic behavior, far from ideal conditions

作为刚好是废除谷物法的那年被for surviving long exposure to the harsh Arctic

埋的尸体，它们保存得非常完好。1846年environment. Beattie confirmed the elevated lead

起尸体一直埋于冻土之中，外表主要部分

levels in John Hartnell and William Braine, the 没有腐化。托林通看上去跟生前差不多。two other exhumed bodies. In 1845, tinned 脸上皮肤完好；牙齿、眼睛与大部分头发preserved food was a modern invention, tin cans 尚存。他体内组织的标本看上去跟刚死去having been only patented in England in 1811. They 的人差不多，而且某些细菌感染处历经严were made from a wrought-iron sheet bent into a 寒后依然存在。

cylinder and joined along the seam with solder

containing more than 90 percent lead. Franklin's

expedition carried nearly 8 000 lead-soldered

tins containing meat, soup, vegetables and

尸体解剖表明托林通死的时候正pemmican － a pressed cake of shredded dry meat.

患病。他的两片肺叶由于空气污染物侵蚀Beattie's examination of tins collected near the

变黑，并表现出肺结核症状。还有迹象说site of the graves confirmed the high levels of

明最终导致他死亡的原因是肺炎。然而，lead in the solder and also that the side seams

最令比泰吃惊的是在头发样本中发现高出of some tins were incomplete, increasing the risk

正常很多的铅含量，这说明是急性铅中毒。of contamination.

铅中毒会导致虚弱、乏力、精神愰惚、神 Beattie's gruesome raising of Franklin's

经机能症及行为怪诞，远远达不到长期在death had answered the age-old question of what

恶劣的北极环境中生存的理想身体状况。

happened to the ill-fated Northwest Passage

比泰在另两具挖掘出的尸体即约翰·哈特expedition. Weakened by the physical and

内尔与威廉·布莱恩体内也也发现铅含量neurological side effects of lead poisoning, the

过高。在1845年，罐头食品是一项现代发men would have not been physically able to fight

明。锡罐于1811年在英国取得专利权。这off the diseases that were the eventual cause of

种罐是由精制铁 皮卷成圆筒而成，切口的death.

The Missing Link

Simonson's expedition returned from

缝由铅含量达90%以上的焊锡来焊接。富兰克林探险队则带有近八千个装有肉、汤、蔬菜，以及压缩肉糜饼（一种用干肉捣碎Everest at the start of June 1999. He has similar 压制而成的饼）的含铅焊锡封口的罐头。hopes of answering the questions surrounding the 比泰检验了墓地附近采到的铁罐，证实焊last hours of Mallory and Irvine. Although 锡铅含量较高，并且一些罐头边缝也没完Mallory's camera was not recovered, various other 全焊牢，这就增加了食物受到污染的危险artifacts were unearthed, including an oxygen 性。

bottle, Mallory's watch, an altimeter, glacier

goggles, a pocketknife and several letters from

family members. An American documentary team, who

traveled with the expedition, is already planning

to run a series of forensic examination on the

artifacts, similar to those of Beattie. They hope

to piece together the many possible scenarios of

Mallory and Irvine's last day. Beattie's solution

比泰揭示了导致富兰克林死亡的to the Franklin mystery took four expeditions and

可怕原因，回答了许多困扰人们的问题，Simonson is not expecting miracles. Already he is

即什么原因使西北路线探险遭到如此厄looking ahead to the next year and planning a

运。由于铅中毒所产生的身体与精神上的second expedition. Next time he wants to look for

副作用，人们的体质受到削弱，无力与疾Irvine's body and the elusive camera, which he

病作斗争而最终导致死亡。

still believes is on the mountain. But for the

present, the mystery of both the man and the

mountain live on.

缺省的一环

(1973 words) TOP

西门松探险队1999年6月初从珠峰归来。他同样希望能解答马罗礼与欧文最后几小时出现的问题。虽然没有找到马罗礼的照相机，但发现了其他的物件，其中有马罗礼的手表、冰原用护目镜、一把小刀及几封家信。跟随探险队的一个美国记录片拍摄小组已准备对这些物件做一系列类似比泰的法医检查。他们希望将马罗礼与欧文最后一天生活片断汇集成片。比泰为解开富兰克林之迷作过四次探险，因此西门松并没有期待出现奇迹。他已筹划在明年进行第二次探险。下一次，他要寻找欧文的尸体及那只尚未找到的相机。他相信相机还在山上。可眼下，人与山的迷团尚待破解。

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本文标签： 珠峰尸体发现探险队探险